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Lamp distance, spread, and reflectors

Light does not fade because it travels. It thins because the beam covers more area. Reflectors and hanging height decide how much of each watt hits leaves.

light canopy vegetative flowering
Lamp distance, spread, and reflectors — Marijuana Grower's Handbook, page 265
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Why distance looks dimmer

Spread, not loss: A focused beam stays intense. A wide flood dilutes the same photons over more plants.

Footprint trade: Lighting a larger area always lowers intensity at each leaf.

Wasted rays: Any photon that hits ceiling, wall, or floor is paid for and unused.

HID and fluorescent habit: Those lamps emit in all directions, so a reflector is not optional.

Fluorescent and CFL reflectors

Crowded tubes

Fixtures that pack tubes tight can trap about 40% of the light between tubes and the housing

Baffles

Mini-reflectors between tubes bounce light down instead of tube-to-tube

CFL bowls

Clamp-on bowl reflectors, or a commercial hood on large CFLs, can roughly double canopy intensity

Buy the hood

A better reflector pays back in yield faster than adding another weak fixture

HID hood orientation

Side emission

MH and HPS throw most light out the sides of the arc tube

Horizontal

Preferred in most gardens because more light starts aimed at the canopy

Focused hoods

Best for one- or two-lamp rooms so light does not spill off the sides

Wide hoods

Better in the center of a large room so plants get light from several angles and fewer shadows

Perimeter

Keep edge hoods tight so light stays in the garden

Tube hoods

Spread light over a wide area and can hang vertically in a coliseum-style ring

Vertical hoods

Path

A vertical bulb sends almost all light sideways at the walls

Shallow dishes

Many commercial vertical reflectors are too shallow and dump light in a huge circle

Adjustable sockets

Help a little but do not fix a shallow shape

Verdict in the book

Vertical reflectors are inefficient at putting light on plants