When to till
Why
Turning breaks compaction, blends amendments, and opens paths for roots
Depth
Most beds need loosening 10 to 15 inches down
Skip
Sandy, already loose, or high-organic soils may not need a full till
Scale
Fork, tiller, or plow the whole plot, or only dig holes, mounds, or raised beds
Timing
Mix fertilizers and conditioners while the soil is open, not after it sets again
What to add
Organic
Compost, manure, chopped debris, leaf matter, coir, or peat improve hold and life
Openers
Sand, perlite, used potting mix, gypsum, or wood chips help heavy clay breathe
Sandy fix
Humus, manure, charcoal, or mineral subsoil slow leaching and add body
Cover crop
Clover, vetch, or rye after a fall till becomes green manure and extra pore space
Patience
Each year of organic matter makes clay easier. Later you may only turn the cover crop
Compost quality
Look
Finished compost is dark brown to black and smells earthy, not sour or rotten
Life
Bacteria, fungi, insects, and worms convert locked minerals into forms roots can take
Speed
Chop inputs, turn the pile, and add nitrogen-rich material to finish in one to three months
pH
Most piles sit near neutral to slightly alkaline. Lime can sweeten a sour pile so microbes work faster
Water
Humus holds moisture, which is why it is the usual conditioner for both sand and clay
Raised beds from heavy soil
Turn
Loosen the whole area first
Paths
Dig aisles and throw that soil onto the beds
Blend
Mix organic amendments and sand into the bed fill
Height
Build 2 to 3 feet tall so roots sit above the wet native layer